Bandhani & Ajrakh, together
There is something compelling about seeing two very different crafts on the same textile.
Both are deeply rooted in Kutch, yet they create pattern in entirely different ways. Crafted Folklore brings them together.
A Little History
Bandhani, also known as Bandhej, comes from the Sanskrit root bandh, meaning to bind — a fitting name for a craft built around gathering and tying small portions of cloth before dyeing.
The craft became established in Kutch through the Khatri community and developed into one of Gujarat's best-known tie-and-dye traditions.
Ajrakh has roots in Sindh and was brought to Kutch by Khatri artisans, where the craft developed its own distinctive character through repeated block printing and dyeing. The name Ajrakh is traditionally associated with the Arabic azrak, meaning blue, reflecting the importance of indigo in the craft.
Both have continued to evolve with the people who practise them, the fabrics they work on and the ways the textiles are worn.
When Two Crafts Meet
Bandhani is about the mark made by the knot. Ajrakh is about the mark made by the block.
One creates dots and flowing forms; the other builds geometry, rhythm and intricate repeats. Placed together, the contrast is immediate — the precision of the block against the irregularity of the tied dot.
We had worked with both crafts independently for years. Bringing them together came from noticing how naturally their differences worked — the geometry of Ajrakh giving the Bandhani dots a ground, while the irregularity of the dots kept the printed surface from feeling too ordered.
The Bandhani is not printed onto the Ajrakh. It is tied and dyed separately, giving the finished textile two distinct layers of pattern and the variations that come with each process.
That contrast is what first drew us to the combination.
The Artisan Story
The idea for Crafted Folklore grew from our work with artisans of the Khatri community in Kutch.
Among them is Akhtar Ji, a master Bandhani artisan who learnt the craft from his elders. He specialises in Bandhani and Shibori, but his knowledge of Ajrakh also comes from growing up around the craft and understanding its processes.
That knowledge mattered when we began developing this collection. Bringing Bandhani and Ajrakh together wasn't simply a matter of placing two prints on the same saree. The proportions, placement and relationship between the two had to work as a whole.
His understanding helped take the collection from our sketches to the textiles we eventually made.
The Making of the Textile
The Ajrakh process comes first. Even though the printed area is limited to a specific portion of the saree or dupatta, the fabric still goes through 16 stages of Ajrakh printing and preparation, with the final dyeing stage omitted for this particular combination.
Once the Ajrakh work is complete, the Bandhani process begins — from design planning and marking to tying and dyeing, following its four basic stages.
Once the textile arrives at our studio, the final details are added according to the design — mukaish or mirror work, perhaps, or edge details finished with tassels or beads. These are the details that complete the textile and bring the original design to life.
So while each craft occupies its own part of the textile, neither is simply added as a surface detail. Two distinct handcraft processes, each demanding time, skill and precision, come together in a single piece.
That is what gives Crafted Folklore its particular character — and its value.
The Colours & Patterns
Ajrakh brings its familiar vocabulary of indigo, deep red, black and earthy tones, while Bandhani introduces its own colours through the tie-and-dye process.
In Crafted Folklore, the printed and tied elements are placed deliberately across the textile. Some pieces allow the Ajrakh to form the ground, while others give greater prominence to the Bandhani. Some are further finished with mirror embroidery, adding another point of light to the surface.
In the Drape
No two pieces read quite the same. The placement of the Bandhani, the movement of the Ajrakh and the small variations left by hand give each textile its own character.
The Ajrakh pallu, the Bandhani body and the small touches of embroidery come together differently when the saree is draped. From one angle, the printed surface takes prominence; from another, the Bandhani dots come forward.
It is this changing relationship between the two crafts that gives the saree its character.
Paired with simple jewellery, the textile can speak for itself. For a wedding or celebration, traditional accessories can take it in a more festive direction.
The collection also includes Bandhani Ajrakh dupattas for those who want to bring the combination into a simpler wardrobe.
A Craft That Continues
For us, the value of a craft lies not only in preserving what has been done before, but in giving the people who practise it reasons to keep doing it.
When established techniques come together in a new textile, the craft is not being left behind. It is being given another place in contemporary life.
That is what Crafted Folklore means to us.
CHAKOR's Trusted Tales
Here are a few words from those who have worn Crafted Folklore:
"Absolutely beautiful saree! The color is lovely and understated, adding a touch of elegance. ."
- Clara Abraham, Kochi
"The quality and craftsmanship are unparalleled. I wore the saree for a wedding & so many compliments!"
– Shanthi R., Bangalore
"Absolutely gorgeous saree. The fabric, the design, the colour everything is good about it. Every time I see pictures, it brings me back sweet memories."
- Vandana Mohan, Gurgaon
"A Chakor Saree. Absolutely love the feel and colour"
- Soumi, Hyderabad
View more, at our page Trusted Tales
Chakor's Crafted Folklore
Bandhani and Ajrakh come from different processes, but share a landscape, a community and a long association with Kutch.
In Crafted Folklore, we bring the two together in Bandhani Ajrakh sarees and dupattas — allowing the dots of Bandhani and the geometry of Ajrakh to sit alongside one another, each retaining its own character.
Explore Crafted Folklore →
