Weaves from Bhujodi

 

More like an extended part of Bhuj in Gujarat, just 8 kms away, the village of Bhujodi is famously know as the textile hub of Kutch, where the Vankars have been weaving 500-year-old stories into every piece of textiles that comes off their looms. Each shawl, blanket, lungi and fabric woven here is beauty crafted by the Vankars with an indigenous technique in hand practicing the extra weft ornamentation in textiles for generations.

Entwined and hand woven with the eternal bond of ancient traditions and colourful threads, Bhujodi is home of over 250 Vankars (Weavers) of Kutch, originally from the Marwada and Maheswari communities are said to be migrated from Rajasthan. The Maheshwaris transitioned into the art of mashroo weaving, while the Marwada style is now well known as Kutchi weaving. Each weaver was once personally linked with a Rabari family, who would barter handspun yarn from cattles along with grain & milk products, for their weaves. Weavers used these yarns for colourful patterned weaves to make veils, skirts, shawls and blankets for the Rabaris in exchange.

 

 

‘Dhabda’ – a term in local language are shawls made for the Rabaris, woven in two separate parts and then sewn together. It would keep them protected from the harsh & cold winters in the region. Earlier, these weavers also made traditional headgear, a style of turban know as ‘Dhotali’ in maroon-green colour and later white and the Ahirs preferred the colourful attire.

 

Pic : from Shamji Valji on 30stades.com

 

 

 

Traditionally, Kutchi weaving was carried out on a panja or a vertical frame loom. The basic structure of the loom remained the same, but it evolved to a more convenient model with time while a traditional charkha is used for spinning of the yarn. Bhujodi weaving too is done on traditional pit looms in the weavers' homes that has the shuttle movement controlled by a foot-over pedal, as against the slow process of passing it through the warp manually.

The intricate patterns are all created by physically lifting up the threads of the warp with the fingers and then manually inserting the extra weft thread to form the motifs and designs. Sometimes, a single weft thread is passed through for border patterns and multiple thread are used to form the motifs.

 

 


The entire process is like creating embroidery on a loom, which is why it is highly time-consuming and requires skill and patience. It is a collective effort by the family, where the women are actively involved in preparing the yarn of the warp and winding bobbins needed for the motifs, while the laborious process of weaving is left t the men. Weaving as a process goes around the year apart from the rainy season, when work hits a lean because of practical reasons.

 

 

Traditionally into making of blankets & woollen shawls using sheep and camel yarns, the ‘Vankars’ have experimented with cotton and other yarns, as a result over the years the fabric got finer with speed and variety of yarns available. The motifs however remained traditional and characteristic of communities. The designs created into Kutchi woven fabrics were inspired by the communities who wore them, replicating the simplified shapes of musical instruments, the footsteps of an animal herd, etc. It is said that the motifs are inspired by the architectural elements of the carved structures of forts and historical monuments. The names for motifs like vakhiyo, chaumukh, satkani, or dholki are evocative of the rural images.

 

The signature element of these Vankars is how simple , usually geometric motifs are arranged aesthetically and then woven into the fabric using a special technique. The base of the fabrics or shawls is usually plain or with striped or a pattern and the texture and colour is see on the extra weft motifs.

 

 

 

 

Earlier the yarn, whether cotton or woolen, is dyed in rich shades of natural colours that provides an earth look and feel. The interesting fact about the woolen shawls feels warm in winter, it also keeps one cool in the summer, when the fabric is loosely woven making it airy and comfortable

While some wool from locally grown sheep is still used, they also procure silk from Bangalore, acrylic from Ludhiana, wool from Barmer and cotton from Ahmedabad, to cater to the increasing demands. The fine cotton has enabled them to create more intricate and colorful designs. Such pieces may have 70 threads per square inch instead of the usual 24. Weaving of a piece may take days to months, depending upon the intricacy and newness of the design.

Today various products Sarees, stoles, home furnishing products along with shawls and carpets are made in contemporary styles using fine cotton, organic kala cotton, tussar silks and wool. Many of the pieces have further ornamentation done on the surface like mirror embroidery in addition to the tassels which make these even more appealing and interesting and enhance the beauty of hand weaving even more.

 In 2001, Kutch was devasted by a massive earthquake where Bhujodi and surrounding places were severely hit. Old connections between landowners, sheep herders, weavers, dyers and others were broken along with their setups. While Kutch was sweating and toiling to get back to its feet organizations like  Kala Raksha Vidhayala, a design institute and Khamir , a registered Society and Public Trust ,  made a remarkable contribution by extending their support and co-operation to artisans and weavers in craft revival.

 Today, the Vankars of Bhujodi have not only become entrepreneurs in their work by they are also recognized internationally as well.

Not relying too much on today’s education system, the vankars train their future weavers from a very tender age. Growing around the traditional looms in the household, the kids learn by seeing, even before they develop conscience.

Though there is a challenge, Bhujodi weaving is a craft that requires high levels of concentration and expertise. It is a physically strenuous craft that requires the craftsman to hunch over his loom for days together. This causes health concerns like sore arms, poor eyesight and stomach problems. This is a big cause of worry for the weavers.
The craft is time consuming as it takes more than a fortnight of hand weaving at a stretch, all the warp put around the drum at once. The weaver has to handpick the warp and weft from memory and any error will mean starting the entire process all over again.


 Nanji bhai Marwada working on the loom

 

Nanjibhai is a keen artificer and enjoys his passion for the weaves. He is the master behind our signature collection who has translated our ideas and designs into the beautiful handwoven sarees through his skills, perseverance and determination.

 

 

 

Embroidered Illusion - Bhujodi Weaves

a weaver weaving Bhujodi saree on handloom

Bhujodi, a quaint village in the arid landscapes of Kutch, Gujarat, is synonymous with a unique and intricate craft that has woven its way into the fabric of Indian textiles. This craft, deeply rooted in the cultural heritage of the region, is an integral part of the diverse textile traditions that Gujarat is renowned for. 

Historical Roots

Bhujodi's textile heritage dates back centuries, with its origins intertwined with the nomadic communities that settled in Kutch. The craft has been passed down through generations, evolving into a sophisticated art form that reflects the vibrant culture and artistic sensibilities of the region.

Craftsmanship and Technique:

Bhujodi craft is characterised by its intricate hand-weaving using extra weft technique, creating textiles with exceptional detail and precision. Artisans in Bhujodi are known for their mastery of traditional pit looms, where threads are meticulously intertwined to produce unique patterns and textures. The craft encompasses a variety of weaving styles, including plain weaves, twills, and the signature Kutchi weaving that incorporates vibrant geometric designs.

Distinctive Key Features of Bhujodi Craft:

  • Fine Wool Weaving : Bhujodi is particularly renowned for its use of fine sheep wool, sourced locally. The wool is skillfully spun and woven into fabrics that are not only warm but also incredibly soft, making Bhujodi shawls and sarees a comfortable and luxurious choice.
  • Geometric Patterns : Geometric patterns are a hallmark of Bhujodi craft. The intricate designs, often inspired by the natural landscapes of Kutch, feature geometric shapes and motifs that add a timeless and traditional touch to the textiles.
  •  Vibrant Color Palette : Bhujodi textiles are known for their vibrant color palette, reflecting the lively spirit of Kutch. The artisans use natural dyes sourced from plants and minerals to create a stunning array of colors, ranging from earthy tones to bold and bright hues.

The intricate patterns are all created by physically lifting up the threads of the warp with the fingers without a ‘Dobby’ or ‘Jacquard’ and the ‘Athh tako’ technique (with four peddles in the loom) is unique, and then manually inserting the extra weft thread to form the motifs and designs. Sometimes, a single weft thread is passed through for border patterns and multiple thread are used to form the motifs. The entire process is like creating embroidery on a loom, which is why it is highly time-consuming and requires skill and patience. It is a collective effort by the family, where the women are actively involved in preparing the yarn of the warp and winding bobbins needed for the motifs, while the laborious process of weaving is left to the men.

 

    Beloved Bhujodi - Intricate weaving in Chakor Cotton Saree

    CHAKOR's Beloved Bhujodi

    At Chakor, we take pride in presenting the rich legacy of Bhujodi craft through our exclusive saree collection, where tradition meets contemporary elegance. Our exclusive Bhujodi saree collection narrates the tales of vankars or weavers that are not only meticulous and hardworking but innovative and ingenious. Each saree is Beautifully adorned with intricate geometric motifs and playful tassels, reflects the timeless beauty of Kutch's textile heritage. Our collection celebrates the authenticity and craftsmanship of this unique tradition, highlighting our commitment to preserving and showcasing Bhujodi craft, honoring India's cultural diversity. Our sarees pay homage to the skilled artisans of Bhujodi, immersing you in the heritage of Kutch, Gujarat.