There are sarees. And then there are sarees that remember.
Nizāmat, from the house of CHAKOR, doesn’t just drape — it preserves.
A gentle weaving of past legacies, this edit builds on the warp of tradition and the weft of quiet regality.
The name ‘Nizāmat’ comes from the Urdu word nizam, meaning order, discipline, and governance. It evokes memories of refined rule, particularly under the Nizams of Hyderabad — known for their architecture, textiles, and restrained luxury. This saree carries that memory in its geometry, structure, and grace.
From the Designer’s Desk
When I first saw a Mangalgiri cotton with a Nizam border, it didn’t shout.
It whispered —a whisper strong enough to linger.
In a world that celebrates ornamentation, its simplicity stood out — not with grandeur, but with grace. A fine grid of zari, bordered with tiny triangular Kangri motifs — sharp, minimal, meditative. That’s exactly why I chose it.
I’ve always been drawn to restraint — where tradition shows up with clarity. Where the story is narrated in precision, not in excess. The Nizam border felt like structure made visible. It reminded me of tailored selvedges — essential, not ornamental.
We’ve worked with Mangalgiri since 2016 — a weave more popularly known by this name across India, though traditionally called Mangalagiri in its home region.. Our first capsule paired Bandhani with crisp white cottons — raw, honest, completely hand-done. Since then, we've kept letting the weave speak — sometimes with Bandhani, sometimes Ajrakh, and now, by letting the border lead the narrative felt like a natural evolution.
What Is the Nizam Border?
It’s a design rooted in restraint. Narrow, minimal, and precise — a few parallel lines in zari, edged with tiny triangular Kangri motifs. Woven on fine cottons, it carries clarity without excess.
This border emerged in the Deccan during the 16th–17th century under the Nizams of Hyderabad — rulers known for their refined taste and love for structure. You’ll find echoes of Islamic geometry in its symmetry and sharpness.
Over time, the motif travelled to coastal Andhra, becoming a staple in Mangalgiri cottons — known for their breathability, crispness, and everyday elegance. In the 80s-count cottons we use, it’s both grounding and quietly dressy — a perfect blend of heritage and wearability. Mangalagiri textiles, now protected under the Geographical Indications (GI) of Goods Act, have been woven in the Guntur region for over 500 years.
Hours, Hands & Harmony
A skilled weaver takes 3–4 full working days to complete a single Mangalgiri saree — combining the precision of zari work with a pit loom process that creates a gapless, compact weave built for durability. The full warp setup — producing 4-6 sarees — takes around 20-22 days from beam to final weave or a single weaver.
Then comes the Bandhani.
Each saree travels through design planning & placements, khākha creation, marking, and the longest step of all — tying. Unlike mass tying, each saree is knotted only by one artisan. For this edit, 16 women artisans worked over 2 months just for knotting — Entire production process spanned from Aug 2024 to May 2025 & 4 sarees still underway
The zari starts as gold but transforms in the dyeing process — absorbing the colour of the Bandhani and blending into the saree’s palette. The plain weave body isn’t just aesthetic — it’s functional. It holds the pressure of the Bandhani knots without damage or distortion, allowing for clarity in every dot and pattern. The border becomes part of the story and not a separate accent.
These aren’t flaws. The occasional warp skip, a micro knot impression, or softened motif — they’re the signatures of handloom. Evidence of rhythm led by human hand, not machine.
A Glimpse of Then, Woven for Now
Refined. Minimal. Timeless.
We’ve kept the palette quietly intense — deep maroons, inky navies, and softened blacks meet old rose, violet purples, moss green, and stone grey. These tones don’t dazzle; they linger — a palette of aged richness and subtle strength. Sarees adorned with Bandhani — where two of our most trusted techniques come together.
Designs include: Delicately woven Nizam borders on body-plain cottons, pallus adorned with intricate Bandhani patterns, and bodies covered in delicate bandhej dots. A simple take-off from the traditional patterns are Laheriya, Shikari, Baavan Baag, Jharmar, and Kharek — emphasising the entire saree or just the pallus.
The Bandhani seen here is crafted in rai bandhej — or bareek bandh — where each dot is tied so precisely, it resembles the finest scatter of pearls on fabric. Each dot is a whisper of skill — like the soft glint of pearls held in cloth and it’s memory knotted in miniature. The kind of intricacy you don’t just wear — you hold on to. It doesn’t just draw a glance — it leaves an imprint. A desire to possess, to preserve, to pass on. 
All of it handwoven, all of it crafted using traditional tie-dye techniques, and above all — made with an intent to preserve form.
You’ll find no drama here. Just definition. A clear voice.
For the ones whose eyes seek fine nuances —
not drawn to gold for its shine, but for the quiet way it settles into the weave.
For those who seek structure over shine, meaning in restraint,
and who feel more drawn to discipline than to disorder.
A Saree That Stays
Nizāmat isn’t loud, but it lasts. It’s the kind of saree you reach for on days that matter — when elegance must be effortless. It wears well at special occasions, lends grace to gifting, and settles into wardrobes like an heirloom piece should.
At CHAKOR, we don’t follow fashion. We follow form. We preserve time — because classic doesn’t age. It may not be fashionable, but it’s always in. Evergreen, like the crafts that shaped it.
✨ Crafted in limited batches, always.
Nizāmat is now live. Come Explore
