Solitary loom-craft from Bhujodi
More like an extended part of Bhuj in Gujarat, just 8 kms away, the village of Bhujodi is famously know as the textile hub of Kutch, where the Vankars have been weaving 500-year-old stories into every piece of textiles that comes off their looms. A traditional form of handloom weaving that has a rich history and cultural significance. Each shawl, blanket, lungi and fabric woven here is beauty crafted by the Vankars with an indigenous technique in hand practicing the extra weft ornamentation in textiles for generations.
Entwined and hand woven with the eternal bond of ancient traditions and colourful threads, Bhujodi is home of over 250 Vankars (Weavers) of Kutch, originally from the Marwada and Maheswari communities are said to be migrated from Rajasthan. The Maheshwaris transitioned into the art of mashroo weaving, while the Marwada style is now well known as Kutchi weaving. Each weaver was once personally linked with a Rabari family, who would barter hand-spun yarn from cattles along with grain & milk products, for their weaves. Weavers used these yarns for colourful patterned weaves to make veils, skirts, shawls and blankets for the Rabaris in exchange.
Pic : Shamji Valji on 30stades.com
Traditionally, Kutchi weaving was carried out on a panja or a vertical frame loom. The basic structure of the loom remained the same, but it evolved to a more convenient model with time while a traditional charkha is used for spinning of the yarn. Bhujodi weaving too is done on traditional pit looms in the weavers' homes that has the shuttle movement controlled by a foot-over pedal, as against the slow process of passing it through the warp manually.
The intricate patterns are all created by physically lifting up the threads of the warp with the fingers without a ‘Dobby’ or ‘Jacquard’ and the ‘Athh tako’ technique (with four peddles in the loom) is unique, and then manually inserting the extra weft thread to form the motifs and designs. Sometimes, a single weft thread is passed through for border patterns and multiple thread are used to form the motifs.
Traditionally into making of blankets & woollen shawls using sheep and camel yarns, the ‘Vankars’ have experimented with cotton and other yarns, as a result over the years the fabric got finer with speed and variety of yarns available. The motifs however remained traditional and characteristic of communities. The designs created into Kutchi woven fabrics were inspired by the communities who wore them, replicating the simplified shapes of musical instruments, the footsteps of an animal herd, etc. It is said that the motifs are inspired by the architectural elements of the carved structures of forts and historical monuments. The names for motifs like vakhiyo, chaumukh, satkani, taarlo, meeri or dholki are evocative of the rural images.
Earlier the yarn, whether cotton or woollen, is dyed in rich shades of natural colours that provides an earth look and feel. The interesting fact about the woollen shawls feels warm in winter, it also keeps one cool in the summer, when the fabric is loosely woven making it airy and comfortable
While some wool from locally grown sheep is still used, they also procure silk from Bangalore, acrylic from Ludhiana, wool from Barmer and cotton from Ahmedabad, to cater to the increasing demands. The fine cotton has enabled them to create more intricate and colorful designs. Such pieces may have 70 threads per square inch instead of the usual 24. Weaving of a piece may take days to months, depending upon the intricacy and newness of the design.
Today various products Sarees, stoles, home furnishing products along with shawls and carpets are made in contemporary styles using fine cotton, organic kala cotton, tussar silks and wool. Many of the pieces have further ornamentation done on the surface like mirror embroidery in addition to the tassels which make these even more appealing and interesting and enhance the beauty of hand weaving even more.
In 2001, Kutch was devastated by a massive earthquake where Bhujodi and surrounding places were severely hit. Old connections between landowners, sheep herders, weavers, dyers and others were broken along with their setups. While Kutch was sweating and toiling to get back to its feet organisations like Kala Raksha Vidhayala - a design institute and Khamir - a registered Society and Public Trust, made a remarkable contribution by extending their support and co-operation to artisans and weavers in craft revival.
Today, the Vankars of Bhujodi have not only become entrepreneurs in their work by they are also recognised internationally as well.
Not relying too much on today’s education system, the vankars train their future weavers from a very tender age. Growing around the traditional looms in the household, the kids learn by seeing, even before they develop conscience.
Though there is a challenge, Bhujodi weaving is a craft that requires high levels of concentration and expertise. It is a physically strenuous craft that requires the craftsman to hunch over his loom for days together. This causes health concerns like sore arms, poor eyesight and stomach problems. This is a big cause of worry for the weavers.
The craft is time consuming as it takes more than a fortnight of hand weaving at a stretch, all the warp put around the drum at once. The weaver has to handpick the warp and weft from memory and any error will mean starting the entire process all over again.
The intricate designs and high-quality materials used in Bhujodi weaving have made it a popular choice among fashion designers and consumers, both in India and around the world. Today, Bhujodi weaving continues to be an important part of the local economy, and efforts are being made to promote and preserve the art form for future generations. With its eco-friendly practices and commitment to quality, Bhujodi weaving is a true gem in the world of textile arts.
In recent years, Bhujodi weaving has also gained recognition as an eco-friendly alternative to mass-produced textiles. The use of natural dyes, indigenous cotton, and handloom weaving techniques make Bhujodi weaving a sustainable and environmentally-friendly option for those looking to reduce their carbon footprint and support local artisans. The Kutchi shawls have also received the GI tag (Geographical Indication) which signifies their unique origin and traditional craftsmanship. This recognition assures consumers of the authenticity and distinctiveness of Bhujodi weaving, reinforcing its cultural heritage and promoting the livelihoods of local artisans.
Bhujodi textiles have gained recognition both nationally and internationally for their exceptional quality and craftsmanship. They have been showcased in prestigious exhibitions and fashion shows, drawing attention to the artistry and cultural significance of Bhujodi craft.
Bhujodi craft stands as a testament to the rich textile traditions of Kutch and the skill and dedication of its artisans. The intricately woven textiles with their vibrant colors and traditional designs are treasured for their beauty, warmth, and cultural heritage.
Nanji bhai Marwada working on the loom
Nanjibhai is a keen artificer and enjoys his passion for the weaves. He is the master behind our signature collection who has translated our ideas and designs into the beautiful handwoven sarees through his skills, perseverance and determination.
Shop Chakor’s Beloved Bhujodi - a collection of stunning handwoven sarees
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