The Abha: From Kutchi Tradition to Contemporary Dress
The Abha, also known as Abho, was traditionally worn by women in Kutch for weddings, festivals and other important occasions. It was not everyday clothing, but part of ceremonial dressing — often worn with matching or Ijar- trousers and an odhani. and carrying a sense of identity, celebration and status within the community.
Its flowing silhouette was often richly worked with Bandhani, metallic ribbons, zari embroidery and other forms of embellishment. Made with care and worn for occasions that mattered, an Abha could become part of a woman's ceremonial wardrobe and, eventually, an heirloom.
The Abha in the Archive
One of the archival pieces is a Bandhani silk Abha from Kutch, dating to the late 19th or early 20th century.
Made in gaji silk, the garment is covered with intricate Bandhani. Its neckline is worked in gold zari, while metallic ribbons, thread embroidery and sequins add to its elaborate appearance.
The details are particularly revealing. The garment is not simply decorated; its construction itself shows the time and skill invested in ceremonial dress.
Bandhani Silk Abha or Aba – Detail of neckline
Late 19th century-early 20th century | Origin: Kutch, Gujarat, India
Another archival piece is a Muslim Kharti women's wedding odhani, from Kutch and dating to the late 19th or early 20th century.
Made in Silk satin (Gaji Silk), tie dyed (bandhani) with metallic thread embroidery.
The construction itself is revealing. The two pieces are made separately and then joined through the embroidery, turning the seam into part of the ornamentation.
In their ornate detailing and textures, these garments are a reflection of community heritage - stitched and dyed sometimes over years, as part of bridal trousseau and heirloom wardrobes.
These garments offer a glimpse into the role of Bandhani, silk and embellishment in Kutchi ceremonial dress.
Woman's Wedding Headcover (Odhani | Dupatta)
India, Gujarat, Kutch, Khatri Muslims, late 19th-early 20th century
Muslim Khatri bride odhni
Designing the Abha Today
The archival Abha gave us the starting point, but we didn't want to reproduce it exactly.
Some of the original motifs were highly intricate, so we simplified them for the new textiles. Others were resized or repositioned, changing the way they sit within the composition. Where an existing zari border already defined the edge, we left out the additional Bandhani border.
Colour gave us another opportunity to experiment. Alongside familiar combinations, we explored new colourways through sampling, including discharge dyeing.
And then there is the part that can only happen once a design reaches the hands making it.
A motif that looks balanced on paper can behave differently on fabric. Scale changes. Placement shifts. Sometimes four motifs become three once the fabric is folded and the design is worked through.
The final Abha is therefore neither a reproduction of the archival garment nor a departure from it. It carries something of the original, reworked for the way we dress today.
From Archive to Everyday
What we love about this interpretation is the balance between what is familiar and what has changed. The Bandhani still carries the character of the original Abha, but the lighter fabrics, altered scale and new colour combinations give it a different ease.
It feels rooted without feeling costume-like — something that can hold its own as a saree, become the accent through a dupatta, or quietly transform a simpler outfit through a blouse or kurta set.
The Bandhani Connection
At the heart of Abha is Bandhani — the craft that connects the collection most directly to the archival garments.
Our Bandhani is made by hand, with tiny portions of fabric gathered and tied before dyeing. In fine rai bandhej, these knots create delicate dots across the fabric, with the slight variations that come from the human hand.
More than a century separates the archival garments from the pieces we make today, but the fundamental process remains recognisable: tie, dye, open and reveal.
For more on the craft itself, read Dot by Dot
Wearing Abha Today
What makes Abha particularly easy to live with is its versatility.
A Bandhani saree can carry the richness of the original ceremonial garments without requiring a ceremonial occasion. Worn simply, the Bandhani becomes the focus; paired with traditional jewellery, it can take on a more festive character.
A dupatta can bring the same visual language to a plain kurta, while a Bandhani blouse can introduce colour and pattern without changing the entire outfit.
This is where the idea behind the collection comes full circle: something once reserved for particular occasions can find a place in the everyday wardrobe without losing where it came from.
A Note on the visuals
The archival images shown here are of Kutchi antique textiles and garments, sourced from sarajo.com and lacma.org and used with gratitude to their respective archives.
These pieces offer a glimpse into how Bandhani, silk and embellishment were used in Kutchi dress, and provided some of the references for the Abha collection.
For us, archives are not only records of the past. They can also be a starting point for looking at what these textiles might become.
Abha
Abha began with a garment from another time.
Today, its Bandhani, flowing forms and details have found new expressions across sarees, dupattas, blouse fabrics and kurta sets.
The archive gave us the starting point. The way you wear it becomes the next chapter.
Explore collection : ABHA
